Greetings from Campania !

We hope you are as excited as we are about our upcoming culinary trip to this captivating region. Here, you’ll find everything you need to prepare. Please check the sections on the left to find useful information about the trip itinerary, transportation, accommodation, local customs in Naples and our suggestions on what to read and watch to whet your appetite. Take your time to work through the sectionswe’ve included a wide range of knowledge, from the practical to the obscure. Be sure to share your flight details in "your travel info" and more on you in "tell us about yourself," if you have not already.

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Trip Itinerary

Monday, October 20: Arrive & Meet the Group

4:30 PM - 9:00 PM

Arrive and check into our boutique hotel in the old city. We’ll gather in the lobby in the late afternoon at 4:30 PM for a stroll, aperitivo, and introduction to Naples and our week together, all while enjoying sweeping views of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. After our welcome drinks, we’ll continue our pre-dinner walk, or passeggiata as they say in Italian, before settling into Pizzeria Gorizia, a legendary Neapolitan pizzeria celebrated for its century-long heritage of authentic pizza and timeless recipes. 

Tuesday, October 21: Explore the City’s Kitchens

9:00 AM - 10:00 PM

After breakfast at the hotel, we set out at 9:00 AM for a kind of culinary immersion only Napolitanos know how to provide. Get ready to eat!  We’ll get back-kitchen access to bakeries, restaurants and street market stalls to sample babà au rum, sfogliatelle, pizza (of course), caponata, regional cheeses and more. Happily satiated, we’ll take a break from snacking to visit the city’s last market sign painter. Naples is a city that holds tight to its traditions, including hand-painted market signs, nearly all of which are painted by one man you’ll get to meet. To end our day, we head to San Giuseppe della Scalze, a Baroque masterpiece of a church. There, we will enjoy local small bites and an exclusive tasting of Campania wine while we watch a live theater performance.

Wednesday, October 22: Visit Phlegraean Fields, Taste Wine & Meet Viola

9:30 AM - 8:00 PM

After breakfast in the city, we say goodbye to Naples and at 9:30 AM head to rural Campania via a stop in Phlegraean Fields. The home of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire, this volcanic zone is a netherworld of crater lakes, ancient waterways, thriving viticulture and seafood farming. To learn more, we’ll visit a family farm located within Cuma Archaeological Park and eat at Le Cantine dell’Averno, a winery on the shores of Lago d’Averno that sources its food from nearby producers. After lunch, we’ll drive south and settle into our new home, Astapiana Villa Giusso. There, Viola will welcome us with a meal her mother always made after long days of travel: a warming chicken soup studded with homemade pasta and salsa verde. You can jump in to help with final preparation or enjoy a restful early evening to prepare for days of producer visits and cooking ahead.

Thursday, October 23: Take it Easy & Make a Campania Feast with Viola

10:00 AM - 7:00 PM

On our first full day in the countryside, we’ll take it easy to enjoy our accommodations and the beautiful land surrounding them. Have a lie in and have a late breakfast. Spend time walking the estatewhich is also a working farm reading, snacking on the local products Viola has brought in or having lunch at a local restaurant. You might do an olive oil tasting or embark on a guided visit of the "learning garden". It’s a choose-our-own-adventure kind of day. Late in the afternoon we’ll gather in the kitchen to make dinner with Viola. This is our welcome to Campania feast. 

Friday, October 24: Immerse Yourself in Local Cheese Production

8:00 AM - 7:00 PM

Departing at 8AM, we’ll grab coffee and local pastries early today so we can get started on our mozzarella education. But first, we’ll visit the breathtaking Paestum ruins, a collection of three ancient Greek temples built to honor Hera and Athena. Then we'll head to the Barlotti family dairy, where we will meet their animals and watch the small team turn farm-fresh milk into the freshest mozzarella imaginable. Naturally, that will be followed by a mozzarella tasting and a lunch of more hyperlocal fare, including creamy ricotta and bocconcini, classic Campanian pastas and the farm’s own meat.  We conclude our day with a visit to a natural wine producer. The winemakers Pasquale and Elisabetta will welcome us and walk us through the vines, then lead us in a guided tasting of their wines. All this southern Italian hospitality will be accompanied, of course, by an aperitivo of salumi and cheese, and some of the loveliest views in the region.

Saturday, October 25: Taste Italy’s Best Tomatoes & Pasta, Cook with Campania’s Produce

10:00 AM - 8:00 PM

Breakfast today is a slower affair. Wake when you like and enjoy a spread of fresh fruits, breads, cheeses, marmalades, eggs, espressos and more in our hotel’s communal and beautiful kitchen. At 10:00 AM, once fed and caffeinated, we’ll visit Sabatino Abagnale to learn about his famous tomatoes, the rare piennolo, one of only three tomato varieties allowed in true Neapolitan pizza. Thanks to the mineral-rich volcanic soil, hot sun and minimal water, these tomatoes are small and intensely sweet. Viola again has arranged special access for us; normally Sabatino does not allow anyone into his fields but, for Viola’s students, he’ll make this exception.

Our visits to Campania’s small-scale food producers will continue in the town of Gragnano, the birthplace of Italian dried pasta. We will visit Pastificio Faella, widely considered the region’s top pasta producer. Viola has arranged special access for us to tour the facility and learn about the history of pasta in Campania.

We return home for our last hands-on evening with Viola to celebrate the pastas, cheeses and vegetables of Campania. We’ll eat what we make, accompanied by local wines, in the large dining room or outside on the hotel patio under the stars.

Sunday, October 26: Return to Naples & Celebrate the Week

11:00 AM - 9:00 PM

We’ll have one more slow-tempo breakfast at the villa before heading back to Naples at 11:00 AM. There, you’ll have free time to explore the city on your own, shop or visit a museum before we reconvene for our farewell dinner. This last meal takes place in a private home within the Palazzo dello Spagnolo, one of the city’s most iconic buildings. Our local host will treat you to course after course of Neapolitan staples accompanied by local wines. As we eat, we’ll experience one final Neapolitan tradition: a live concert of traditional songs sung in the local dialect.

Monday, October 27: Say Goodbyes and Depart

Depart for home or onto your next destination or, if you’d like, spend a few more days exploring Naples. Chiara will be happy to provide additional recommendations.

Until our next adventure!

Activity Level

Travelers should feel comfortable walking two to four miles each day and remaining on their feet for long periods of time. Be prepared to roll up your sleeves and get hands-on during a couple of cooking workshops. Keep in mind that Naples is a bustling and crowded place!

City Smarts

While personal safety is not an issue in the heart of the city, pickpocketing can be a problem, especially in more touristy areas of Naples. The best approach is to carry only the bare necessities, keep your bags or backpacks close to you, and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings.

Weather & Packing List

Expect daytime temperatures to be in the low 80s (°F), dipping down to the low 60s at night. Sunrise will take place just before 7:30 a.m., with sunset right around 6:00 p.m.

Below are key items to pack:

  • Hand sanitizer
  • Passport and passport copy
  • Comfortable walking shoes that you don’t mind getting dirty
  • Comfortable clothes and jacket for daytime and evening
  • Power plug adapter (if coming from outside the U.S. or Canada)
  • Toiletries and any medications
  • A small, compact umbrella and/or light raincoat
  • Sunglasses, hat, sunscreen
  • Camera

Currency & Money Exchange

Italy uses the euro, and we recommend converting some USD into EUR either before your departure or upon arrival in Italy. Once in Naples, ATMs are your best option for money withdrawal, though you can also pay for most things with a card.

Additionally, remember to notify your bank that you’ll be abroad so you aren’t caught up in an account freeze. It’s also best to check with your bank that your card is valid in the EU.

Connectivity

Wifi will be available at the hotel and sometimes in other city locations. If you’d like to be able to make calls on your cell phone outside of wifi, we recommend buying a local SIM or calling card.

The country code for Italy is +39. When dialing an Italian number from the U.S., dial 011 + 39 + the number. When dialing a number in the U.S. from Italy, first dial 001 and then the number you are calling including the area code.

How to Dress

Choose versatile, casual clothing that can be layered if the weather requires. Cotton and other light fabrics are comfortable choices.  We suggest to bring sweaters, light coats, or shawls for evenings and a rain coat in the event of damp weather.

Cathedrals, churches and other religious sites require conservative dress. Please bring something to cover your arms and shoulders

Taking Photos

Be sure to ask permission before taking pictures of people, including small children. Note that photography is not permitted in some locations, which is usually clearly marked. If in doubt, ask your guide to avoid having your camera confiscated.

Language (Some Common Phrases)

English Italian
Hello/Goodbye Ciao!
Please Per favore
Thank you Grazie
You're welcome Prego
Yes / No Sì / No
Good morning Buongiorno
Good evening Buonasera
Good night Buonanotte
Excuse me Mi scusi
I’m sorry Mi dispiace
Where is... Dove si trova...
Do you speak English? Lei parla inglese?
I don’t speak Italian Non parlo Italiano
Good luck In bocca al lupo (literally “in the mouth of the wolf”)
“Make the little shoe” Fare la scarpetta (the act of mopping up sauce with a piece of bread)

 

Tipping

Tipping 10% in formal restaurants is standard. Spare change for drinks and casual snacks is appreciated, but not expected.

If you feel that your guides have gone above and beyond, tipping will always be appreciated, but never expected. If you’d like to leave a tip, we recommend something in the range of $10-20 a day / guide—i.e., $120-240 total for the six-day trip for the two lead guides. Tips will be shared with the entire team.

Travel Requirements

Current regulations allow U.S. citizens to travel directly from the United States to Italy with no restrictions. For the most up-to-date details on travel requirements for Italy please visit the US Embassy in Italy site.

Your Arrival and Departure to Naples

For flights in and out of Naples International airport, we suggest you arrive by 3 p.m. on Day 1 and depart any time on Day 8. Airport transfers to the hotel can be arranged for your arrival. We are happy to book extra nights for you at the group’s villa; just email us for arrangements after booking your spot on the trip. We’ll also provide suggestions for things to do and see in the area on your own if you choose to extend your visit.


Accommodation

Our group will be staying at Hotel Piazza Bellini in the heart of Naples from October 20th - 22nd, and again from October 26th - 27th.  Our Campanian countryside residence will be the historical Masseria Astapiana Villa Giusso, on the Sorrento Peninsula, from October 22nd - 27th

Hotel Name: Hotel Piazza Bellini
Address: Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, 101, Napoli, 80138
Phone: +39 081 451732
Email: info@hotelpiazzabellini.com
Website: www.hotelpiazzabellini.com

Hotel Name: Masseria Astapiana Villa Giusso
Address: Via Camaldoli, 51, 
Vico Equense, 80069
Phone: +39 081 802 4847
Email: info@astapiana.com
Website: www.astapiana.com

Travel Insurance

We strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance for your trip. Different policies can cover items including trip cancellation, medical expenses and emergencies, and loss of luggage and personal effects.
A recommended option is AIG Travel Guard – Ideal if you're seeking flexibility to customize your coverage with additional add-ons.

Other Recommendations in the Area

Some insider tips to help you make the most of your free time in Naples.

 

Cultural Activities

The Capodimonte Museum - One of the largest art museums in Italy, it houses the Farnese family art collection including some of the word’s most important works in marble as well as masters of the 13th-18th centuries, the Neapolitan Baroque period and contemporary art.

Certosa di San Martino - A former Carthusian monastery dating back to the 14th century, this enormous complex contains a large cloister, a  Neapolitan Baroque church and museum containing a famous collection of nativity scenes with hundreds of figurines and miniature items.

Ipogeo dei Cristallini - A rare and incredible testimony of Hellenic painting and architecture. Four exhibition spaces full of decoration and refined trompe l’oeil effects, alongside a rich collection of ancient artifacts and vases.

Villa Pignatelli - An elegant 19th-century mansion once belonging to several noble families, today the villa is home to two exhibition spaces: the Pignatelli Cortès Museum and the Carriage Museum. 

Pio Monte della Misericordia - Founded in 1602 by seven noble families of Naples, this charitable organization houses Caravaggio's "Seven Works of Mercy," as well as other pieces by 17th-century Neapolitan masters.

Lapis Museum - The Museum of Water is located in the heart of Pietrasanta Basilica. A futuristic project that has restored the original function of the Greco-Roman cisterns, enlivened by water and streams that reconstruct their ancient appearance.

Madre Napoli - In the beautiful surroundings of a light-filled 19th-century Neoclassical palace, Museo Madre’s impressive collection has put Naples on the map of today's contemporary art scene. It has regularly changing exhibitions and a roof-terrace with sweeping views over the city. 

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli - The most important archeological museum in all of Italy, housing ancient Greek, Roman and Renaissance works of art as well as an extensive collection of mosaics and other artifacts recovered from Pompeii, Herculaneum and other cities destroyed during the explosion of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.

Cappella Sansevero - An ornate chapel dating back to 1590, home to the incredibly intricate and moving statue of the Veiled Christ. 

Catacombs of San Gennaro - Carved out of tufa rock and arranged on two levels, the catacombs date back to the 2nd century AD and contain dozens of well-preserved frescoes and mosaics, the tomb of San Gennaro (the patron saint of Naples) as well as tombs of the first bishops of the city.


 

Eating & Drinking

Chiara Garofalo

Sicily-born Chiara moved to Naples in order to attend the Oriental Languages University and fell hard for the unique city. As a professional guide, Chiara finds her work to be the perfect expression of all her interests: art, archeology, history, culture, food, and communication—in one word, her passion for her city.

 

Viola Buitoni, Resident Chef

Viola was born in Rome and raised in Perugia, Italy. With stories and knowledge from six generations, her dishes cross the best of California agriculture with the finest Italian food imports. After moving to the US to attend NYU, Viola started Buitoni & Garretti, a catering kitchen and Italian fine foods shop in New York City. She later moved to San Francisco, where she began lecturing and teaching Italian food tradition workshops at the SF Italian Cultural Institute and Italian Consulate. In addition to leading frequent livestream classes and workshops with Milk Street, she also teaches at 18Reasons, The Civic Kitchen and the Puglia Culinary Center. She is a regular contributor to La Cucina Italiana US and italysegreta.com, and recently published her first cookbook, "Italy by Ingredient." In 2020, the President of the Italian Republic awarded her the the title of Cavaliere dell’Ordine della Stella d’Italia for her work to further the culture and business of Italian food. She lives in San Francisco’s Mission District with her husband, son and tiny dog.

 

Trip FAQs

Pricing and Accommodation

The total cost of this trip is $6,500 per person in a shared room. For travelers wishing to have single accommodations during the trip, an additional $1,000 will be due at the time of the final payment. A $500 non-refundable deposit per traveler is required to secure space on the trip. The balance is due 90 days prior to the start of the trip.

Activity Level

Travelers should be reasonably fit and feel comfortable walking two to four miles each day and remaining on their feet for long periods of time. Keep in mind that Naples is a bustling and crowded place!

Arrival and Departure
For flights in and out of the Naples international airport, we suggest you arrive by 3 p.m. on Day 1 and depart any time on Day 8. We are happy to book extra nights for you at the group’s hotel; just email us for arrangements after booking your spot on the trip. We’ll also provide suggestions for things to do and see in the area on your own if you choose to extend your visit.
Inclusions
  • All accommodation throughout the trip in stylish, boutique hotels.
  • Professional Culinary Backstreets guides throughout the entire experience.
  • Milk Street resident chef for cooking workshops.
  • All meals and drinks included in activities.
  • Admission to all proposed activities, locations and events.
  • Private coach for visits inside and outside the center city.
  • A hungry group of Culinary Backstreets travelers, excited to explore all that Campania has to offer!
Exclusions
  • Transportation and flights to and from Naples, including airport transfers.
  • Additional meals and drinks outside of Culinary Backstreets offerings, including one lunch, one dinner and some alcoholic beverages.
  • If applicable, applying for an Italian visa (not required for U.S. citizens).
  • Travel insurance (recommended).
Dietary Restrictions
We encourage an adventurous palate! We try our best to accommodate dietary restrictions, though in most cases ingredients can’t be substituted or omitted from particular dishes. Unfortunately, due to the Neapolitan palate, the itinerary isn’t able to cater to gluten-free, dairy-free or vegan diets. If you have a particular food allergy or intolerance, please contact us to find out if this is the right trip for you.
Notes on Itinerary

Itineraries and daily schedules are subject to change. We expect to do everything listed in the itinerary, though the order may be rearranged based on weather or other local conditions.

COVID-19 Update

At Culinary Backstreets, we have reinforced our commitment to safety with new guidelines to assure the maximum safety of guests on our trips in terms of social distancing and hygiene while maintaining the quality of the experience. For more details on our precautions, read here.

Our itineraries have been altered during this period of time to ensure the safety of our guests, guides and the local community.

You can read the full travel regulations by location for Italy here. There are currently no travel restrictions in Italy.